Up on the pass, two regions bring their best horses and ride polo the old way — no rules to speak of. I've stood in that crowd. The whole plateau roars.
Every year, on the broad grassy top of Shandur Pass, teams from Chitral and Gilgit meet for what is often called the highest polo tournament in the world. The pass sits at roughly 3,734 metres, and the polo ground stretched across it is famous as the highest of its kind anywhere. For a few days it becomes the centre of the whole region.
This isn't the manicured polo of clubs and lawns. Shandur is free-style mountain polo — fast, rough, and played close to the rules that existed before the sport was tidied up elsewhere. There are fewer restrictions, the pace is relentless, and the rivalry between Chitral and Gilgit runs deep. People here grow up on this game; it's part of who they are, not a novelty staged for visitors. Riders charge the full length of the ground at a flat gallop, the ball is struck on the move, and play barely pauses — it's closer to a running battle than a series of set pieces, and the thin mountain air makes the effort of both horses and men plain to see.
Around the matches there's a whole festival: music, traditional dancing, food stalls, and a tent city that springs up across the plateau as families and travellers camp out for the event. The atmosphere is the real draw as much as the polo itself. If you want a sense of the wider valley this sits in, our Ghizer guide covers the route and the country around it.
Shandur sits on the high route between Chitral and Gilgit, crossing through Ghizer. There's no town on the pass itself — during the festival, everyone camps. Approaching from the Gilgit side, you travel up through Ghizer; from the west, the road comes over from Chitral. Either way it's a long mountain drive on rough roads, and that journey is part of the experience.
| Location | Shandur Pass, ~3,734m, on the Chitral–Gilgit route via Ghizer. |
| From Gilgit side | Drive up through the Ghizer valley — plan for a long day on mountain roads. |
| From Chitral side | Road over the pass from the west; also a full day's travel. |
| Staying there | Camping is how it's done. Tents fill the plateau; bring or arrange your own setup well ahead. |
Because the festival draws large numbers, transport and any organised camps fill up fast. If you're building a trip around it, lock in your travel early and treat the dates as approximate until they're officially confirmed.
When it's held: The festival takes place annually in early-to-mid July, but the exact dates are announced each year. Don't book non-refundable travel around a guessed date — wait for the official announcement and build in a buffer.
Altitude and weather: At roughly 3,734m the air is thin and nights are cold even in July. Come with warm layers, a proper sleeping bag, and sun protection — the daytime sun at this height is fierce.
Camping comfort: Facilities on the pass are basic. This is part of the charm, but go in expecting simple conditions, limited washing, and crowds. Carry your own water plan and essentials.
It takes place annually in early-to-mid July, but the exact dates are announced each year. Wait for the official announcement before booking non-refundable travel, and build in buffer days.
It is held on Shandur Pass at roughly 3,734 metres, on the route between Chitral and Gilgit via Ghizer. The ground is famous as the highest polo ground in the world.
Teams from Chitral and Gilgit, in a long-standing rivalry. They play free-style mountain polo — fast and with far fewer restrictions than the modern club version of the sport.
From the Gilgit side you drive up through the Ghizer valley; from the west the road comes over from Chitral. Both are long mountain drives on rough roads.
Almost everyone camps. A tent city fills the plateau during the festival. Facilities are basic, so bring warm gear, a good sleeping bag, and arrange your camping setup well in advance.