1,300km of road from Islamabad to the Chinese border at Khunjerab Pass (4,693m). The highest paved international road in the world, built through terrain that should have made it impossible.
The Karakoram Highway (N-35) took over 20 years to build, claimed the lives of more than 800 Pakistani and Chinese workers, and opened to civilians in 1986. It follows the ancient Silk Road trade route through the Indus, Hunza, and Gilgit river gorges — terrain where a road seemed impossible to most engineers who first surveyed it.
The full route runs from Hasan Abdal near Islamabad to Kashgar in China's Xinjiang region. The Pakistani section covers roughly 800km from Islamabad to Khunjerab Pass. This is the section most travellers drive, and it is one of the great road journeys in the world.
What makes the KKH extraordinary is the contrast: desert gorges, terraced apricot orchards, glacier meltwater lakes, Pakistani Army checkpoints, centuries-old watchtowers, roadside chai stalls, and mountains so tall they seem structurally implausible.
Distances measured from Rawalpindi/Islamabad. All stops listed are worthwhile — this is not a drive-through route.
Fuel up, stock food, and get all permits sorted here. The KKH officially starts at Hasan Abdal, 40km north. Leave early — you want daylight for the Kohistan section. Overnight in Rawalpindi before a 6am start is the standard approach.
Besham is the first decent overnight stop with functional guesthouses. The surrounding Swat Kohistan district has some of the most dramatic gorge scenery on the route. Komila, just north, has Buddhist rock carvings often missed by through-travellers.
The main overnight point in Diamer District. Hot, dry, conservative. The Chilas Rock Carvings — thousands of Buddhist petroglyphs along the riverbank — are 10 minutes from town and almost entirely unvisited. If you're heading to Fairy Meadows, the Raikot Bridge turn-off is 40km east.
Turn-off for the Fairy Meadows jeep track. 15km unpaved road to Tato Village, then 1.5h hike to the meadow with direct views of Nanga Parbat. Worth a 2-night detour. Rejoin the KKH from the same junction.
The capital of GB and the KKH's main logistics hub. Fuel, ATMs, supplies, guesthouses at all price points, and the departure point for roads east to Skardu and west toward Chitral. Allow half a day for the bazaar and Kargah Buddha. Gilgit is also where the KKH splits from the Karakoram range road east.
The most famous stretch of the KKH. The road runs below Rakaposhi (7,788m) and Diran, past Attabad Lake (turquoise water in a canyon formed by a 2010 landslide), and into Karimabad above. Plan 2–3 nights. The view from Baltit Fort at dawn is the standard postcard shot — for good reason.
The Passu Cones — six limestone spires rising to 6,000m — are visible from the road but best viewed from the footbridge over the Hunza River. The Batura Glacier terminates near the road. Upper Gojal is the last densely settled area before the Chinese border zone.
The last Pakistani settlement of significance. Customs and immigration checkpoint for China-bound travellers. Small market, a few guesthouses, fuel. The road to China continues north from here through Khunjerab National Park.
The highest international border crossing in the world. Snow is present year-round. Yaks and Marco Polo sheep are frequently seen on the approach. The pass is open to tourists May–October. The view south into Pakistan from the top is one of the most spectacular on the entire route.
| Transport options | NATCO bus (Rs. 1,200–1,500, 18–20h Rawalpindi to Gilgit), private car (Rs. 25,000–40,000 hired in Islamabad), shared jeep (Rs. 400–800 per leg between towns). Self-drive in a 4WD is viable and recommended if you want flexibility. |
| Fuel | Available in Islamabad, Besham, Chilas, Gilgit, Karimabad, and Sost. Don't rely on finding it elsewhere. Fill up at every opportunity north of Chilas. |
| Road condition | Islamabad to Besham: mostly paved. Besham to Chilas: rough in places, active rockfall zones. Chilas to Gilgit: improved in recent years. Gilgit to Khunjerab: excellent, Chinese-built. Carry a spare tyre. |
| Security | Kohistan district (Besham to Chilas) requires care. Travel in daylight, don't stop unnecessarily. The Hunza valley and north are safe and popular. Check FCDO/travel advisories before departure. |
| Best months | April–October for the full route. Khunjerab Pass is closed November–April. Spring (April–May) has blossom. Autumn (September–October) has clear skies and less traffic. |
| Foreign nationals | No special permit required to travel the KKH within Pakistan. Standard tourist visa covers the full KKH including Khunjerab National Park. |
| Khunjerab National Park | Rs. 500 entry fee per person, payable at the Sost checkpoint. Required even if not crossing to China. |
| China crossing | Requires Chinese visa (obtained in Islamabad or your home country). The border crossing is Sost (Pakistan) to Tashkurgan (China). Open May–October, daylight hours only. |
| Photography | Military installations, checkposts, and bridges are officially off-limits for photography. In practice: be discreet and ask first near checkpoints. |